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I was very excited to see this video in my facebook newsfeed this morning. I guess facebook is good for something? Anyway, the Ezra facebook page said that they have the hubs and are getting them ready to sell, so they will be out any day now.

The first thing I noticed about the hub is how small it is. It actually looks like a stock hub off a complete bike. The non-drive flange is smaller, so it will take two different spoke lengths. Something I am not a fan of. The axle is only going to be available in male for now, from what I have heard. It does seem like there is way to much axle sticking out from the nuts. Of course, this hub is for Karl, and e rides four pegs, so that wont matter much, but I personally like to have the least chance of skewering my ankles as possible. I did notice a very nicely provided allen key-broached axle though. That is the one thing I have missed since cutting down my KHE axle.

Now for the interesting part. The design is so simple, every other bike company is probably kicking themselves this morning. The hub its self is a standard cassette. The driver cavity (making up names for bike parts) is deeper than a normal cassette, but not by much. Then there seems to be a washer that goes on after the drive-side bearing. A spring rests on this washer, and then comes the interesting bit. A disk with slots cut into it. (see 0:36) This also has a triangle shaped boss. this goes on with the triangle facing out. Then comes the driver. The only difference between a normal driver and this one seems to be that the pawls stick out past the driver. These go into the slots on the triangle-bossed slotted disk. When the driver spins, the pawls slide along the slots. As they move to one end of the slot, the pawls are pushed up, and when they are brought to the other side, by back pedaling, the pawls retract.

I am happy to say that I did think that this is how the coaster would work. I am not saying that I thought this up first, just that I am happy that I kind of figured it out.

Of course, as I was writing this, I saw that The Merged had beat me to it (thats their job, right? They better post before me) They also had a video of how you can switch to a cassette hub. Very interesting. It also looks like it is right/left hand drive switchable. If it is, and it ends up being somewhat affordable (not $200 like Éclat) then this could very well be the go-to hub for the next few years.

Well, you could have gotten all that I just said from watching either one of those videos, but you wasted time reading what I wrote and then watching the videos. Sorry. Maybe you could watch them  in fast forward next time? Anyway, expect me to get one of these when they are available so I can shred er, shed some insight on it.

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Ever since I got the Simple Eject hub I have been in love with flangeless hubs, and have wanted a flangeless cassette, but no one has yet to provide one for me to purchase. Kis came out with the Rattlesnake hub, flangeless on the non-drive side, flanged on the drive side, but they aren’t in America yet, and with the exchange rate, $200 is a little to much for me to pay for a hub.

Now, the hardest part about a flangeless cassette is getting fitting in the drivers pawls and spoke heads. My idea is lengthen the driver so the pawls are sitting past the spoke heads. The main problem with this is that the spokes are not over a bearing, making all the load go onto the hub shell. I am not sure if this would hold up, but It is definitely worth looking into. Also, it would require making a new driver. (that is out of my budget)

One thing that I like about this design is that the axle is 15mm the entire length, so the whole hub just slides apart, making it very easy to clean and so on. It is held together by the pressure of the dropouts on the hub-guard and driver bearings, to the bearings in the hub shell to a bearing spacer inside the hub.


Today we have the Fit Eddie V3 frame. Actually, it has been in the basement for the last 2 months, and Tyler has it, so we dont really have it any more, but we had it. 

We had it in 21″ or XL ,with the integrated seat post in clear black.

The first thing I noticed about this frame was the oval down tube. I did not try to dent it, but I think it would take more work than a normal tube. I also liked the extremely  tapered stays.

The integrated seat  post was really clean looking and I would definitely recommend it, unless you only ride your seat slammed. the chain stay lengths of 13.65-14 are very easy to get used to, and according to the Fit website, with 25-9 you can run it 13.25″ 13.75″ or 14″ so it really accommodates everybody. 

The 69 degree seat tube is not really noticeable until you sit down, than it feels like a 21.25″ frame. The 75 degree head tube was a first for me, and I think my next frame is going to have one. The stand over is 8.375″ and it looks just right, not too tall, not too short, but the integrated seat post made it a little hard to tell if I like the stand over or not because the seat was about 2″ taller than I keep mine.

The mid bottom bracket is externally machined, and it matches the Fit head tube. I personally am a fan of really clean looking frames, so I don’t really like the Fit head tube and bottom bracket that much, but there is nothing wrong with them. I just would personally go with a more rounded look.

Top and down tube gussets and a beefy down tube make this frame look really strong, and I would not be nervous taking big drops or landing flat on this with it. (actually, I am always scared taking drops and landing flat, but I would not worry about the frame) Also, the V3 takes pegs. I am not sure what version started taking pegs, but some of the older versions were allergic to pegs.

So, overall, this is a really good, strong, light American made frame you can be proud to own, wether you ride 2 pegs, 3 pegs, 4 pegs, peg-less street like Eddie Cleveland or trails and street, this is a must consider frame. Personally, it would not be my first choice when buying a new frame, only for the cosmetics reason, but I would never think twice about riding one.

 


First off, a female axle is an axle that has a female bolt that threads into it. Look at This The advantage is that you have more threads touching, it is lighter and is cleaner. Also, read the interview, its cool. Now, take a look at a normal male axle. You see how female looks cleaner? Now the plan is to take a drill bit, a size Q, or maybe a 1/3″ (thats a 0.001″ difference, you make the call) and a 3/8″ 24 tooth per inch (TPI) tap, some 3/8″ 24 tpi bolts and some hacksaw blades. Now the plan is to cut the axle so that 3mm is sticking past the lock nuts on both sides,  and then drilling it out so it is about a 1/3″ hole, and taping it for threads for the bolt. Now, when you put your wheel back in the dropouts 3mm of the axle will be sitting on the 4mm thick dropouts so that your wheel will be centered and most of the stress will be on the axle, not your sketchy bolts, like this kid did. (thats not 3mm) but you can see the basic idea. Now, I would use 3/8″ bolts, not, 5/16 like this clown used. (remember, this blog is for making fun of other peoples technical blunders) (or, at least it is now) Now, if we use 3/8 bolts, thats about 9.5mm so you will have a 14mm axle with 2.25mm thick walls. Not that strong, compared to your original axle with walls of about 5mm. But, look at this. Shadow is making a conversion kit for there new rant v2 hub, slide out the 14mm axle, slide in the new one, and you have, basically, what we are doing, only not scary. You can’t ruin your axle with a conversion kit. So, if it works for shadow… oh, wait, the olive color didn’t, so take note, don’t make an olive color way. But color is not female axles, unless your axle is olive.

Also, This post was all just theory, but after testing some of this, I came to the conclusion that your heat treated cromo axle is very hard, and the standard drill and tap set just wont cut it. (hahahahahahah) So, you would want to take it to a machine shop, put that sucker on a lathe and have some fun. I want a lathe. If you had a lathe, and are good at operating it, I would recommend attempting this. I don’t have a lathe. I am going to cut my axle flush instead. I hope pep boys takes back the drill and tap set I bought and then mangled. Also, don’t try this unless you can get replacement axles for your hub.

Also, we are up to 4,000 views.


To start off, this stem is cheep, at $30, you wont find a comparable top load stem anywhere. A little about this stem, it is forged from 6061 aluminum, and is found on all of sundays complete bikes, except the forecaster, with comes with the new Odyssey Lincoln stem, so that might tell you something, if this stem replaced the Odyssey CFL stem on the top line bikes, it must be O.K. Now, my first thought when I got the stem included, “Man, that raw finish looks cool,” and “Oh, the name makes sense, because it say on the box, reach for the sky.” Now, what that means is that you draw your gun, (you are a cowboy) and say freeze!, now the outlaw that you are pointing your gun at puts his hands up in the air, witch is exactly what this stem does, with a 34mm rise. Now, this stem is a little heavy, at 10.5 oz, but that is only, like 2 oz heavier than the lightest stems, and those stems snap. Lets hope this one doesn’t. you will also notice that it has a cutout for the top cap to sit on, making it sit nice and flush, or in my case, below the top of the stem.

An interesting thing about this stem is  that it is forged, instead of CNC machined, like most stems. Forging is cheeper if you are doing a large run, so because Sunday put this stem on all the complete bikes, they were able to make enough of them to get them forged at a reasonable cost. yeah, blah blah blah. Well, I have only been able to ride this stem for one day, because I am sick, and it is cold outside. But it feels great. I have been running the Simple EZ stem, and it is a front load stem, like the fly bikes media stem, so my bars got boosted up a little, and if feels great. So far, it has not slipped at all, witch is very nice, and I have a feeling it will stay that way for a long time.

To finish off, this stem is the best for the price, if you dont have $65 for a new fit or cult stem, this is the way to go. If you need a new stem, like top load stems there is no need to spend $65. I will update this review in a little bit, when i have been able to jump off some stuff, to see if I can get it to slip.

But for now, I give it an 9 out of 10


There are lots of new flangeless hubs on the market now, the Simple Eject V1(the original flangeless bmx hub) V2, Eclat Teck, Khe Astral, Primo N4FL and Kis is even working on a set of flangeless hubs, the back having a flangeless non-drive side.

Why would you want to build a flangeless wheel? Well, first off, they look cleaner. Also, the can be more aerodynamic and stiffer if they are laced 4x, but the most important part is the fact that  you don’t grind on the spokes. Yeah, imagine not breaking spokes. The only down side of a  flangeless hub is that if you break a spoke from landing hard, you have to take off the wheel and remove the axle to replace it. Now, I read on a flatland forum, you cant radial lace them. well, not with standard spokes, but guess what, if you got Tree straight pull spokes, you could. So if you feel like you need to be a hipster, go for it.

To start off with, you will need to know how to build a wheel, and you will need: Flangeless hub, spokes, spoke nipples and a rim. (this is a good calculator to use for spoke length)

Now, to start off with the building, you need to insert spokes into all the inside holes on the right side. next you lace them to the rim, just like you normally would. But, then you need to twist the hub, counter clock-wise, like you would with a normal hub after the second set of spokes. This part can get a little tricky, depending on your hub. If the spoke holes are a little small, it makes it easier because the spokes cut in, and then stay where you left them, but if the holes are a little big, as the ones in this hub were, then you have to hold the hub in place while you do the next set of spokes. The second set goes in, just like the first one, but you need to make sure the hub stays spun, so the spokes are going in at at an angle. I suggest doing the spokes one at a time for the second set, and it really helps if you have someone to thread on the nipples, especially if you have loose spokes.

Now for the third set. You need to flip it back over, so you can work on the first side. Make sure you keep that hub twisted! Now, go ahead and insert spokes into all the outer holes on the right side, and then, if your hub needs four cross lacing, start with one, and go over the first, second and third spoke, and then under the fourth spoke, to the rim hole. Repeat that all the way around, and then flip it over and do the other side the same way. The last four spokes or so can be really hard to get under and then into the rim, but don’t worry, spokes bend more than you think they do.

Well, thats all there is to it, except truing, and then riding and then truing again, and then riding some more, and then truing it again. So, flip though the pictures, because thats all you really need to see to be able to build a wheel. Don’t forget the bunny rabit!


Good morning, and welcome to the “blog” Today I have lots in store for you to enjoy, so scroll on down and keep on reading. First off, Big Daddy aka Pat Laughlin accepted my friend request on Facebook. Yes, I know what you are thinking, and the best part is that he was my top friend suggestion. Now, back to real life, summer is near, even if you cant tell. It is 5º while I am typing this, but  look at the weather forecast, dramatic temperature increases throughout the week, ending with 37º and raining on Wednesday. Now, if that isn’t big news, I don’t know what it.

In local news, nothing has happened. Almost. Coalition rider Jake Hamlin was in California a few weeks ago and fell off a wall and broke both his wrists. He should be getting better soon, but you probably wont be seeing him at the skatepark for a few weeks, so wish him well.

Jake Hamlin

SE bikes has a new Stay Strong grip out, in a length that people can actually use, in a compound that people can actually hold on too.  Check them out.

ODI STYSRNG

Sunday just got a shipment of there new word bubble grips in ocean blue, red, tan and and white. I think. Check them out and get me a pair of those ocean blue.

Yumm!

Now, get out there and have some fun or do your school or what ever it is you do. Hhahaha